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Read Time: 6 Minutes
In real estate, it’s important to know: “The house you see at the Open House is not the whole story.” You need inspections to reveal the truth.
The same is true for buying a used car.
Recently, I watched a video on vehicle inspections by The Car Care Nut, a Master Automotive Technician. His approach to “due diligence” is so strategic that I had to share it. Whether you are buying a commuter car or a weekend cruiser, this method will help you spot a “lemon” before you sign the paperwork.
Important Disclaimer: I am a Real Estate Strategist, not a certified mechanic. The information below is a summary of general educational tips shared by automotive experts (specifically The Car Care Nut). This is not professional mechanical advice. Always hire a qualified mechanic to perform a formal Pre-Purchase Inspection before buying any vehicle.
Step 1: The “Cold Start” Rule
Some sellers warm up the car before you arrive to hide issues. Tell the seller you want to see the car “stone cold.” When you start a cold engine, you get the raw truth. Listen immediately for:
- Ticking or Knocking: These sounds often disappear once the oil warms up, but they indicate expensive engine wear.
- High Idle: The car should idle high for a moment and then settle down smoothly. If it stumbles, there could be a vacuum leak or sensor issue.
Step 2: The Strategic Test Drive
Don’t just drive around the block. You need to stress-test the components.
The “Hands-Off” Tracking Test On a flat, straight road (and only when safe!), briefly let go of the steering wheel. Does the car immediately dive left or right? If so, you have alignment issues or, worse, previous accident damage.
The Brake Pulsation Test (A Pro Tip) When you hit the brakes, pay attention to where you feel the vibration:
- Shaking in the Steering Wheel? That usually means the Front Rotors are warped.
- Shaking in the Seat/Body? That usually means the Rear Rotors are warped.
- Source: The Car Care Nut – “How To Properly Inspect a Used Car”
The “Swerve” Test (Wheel Bearings vs. Tires) If you hear a roaring noise while driving, is it a bad tire or a bad wheel bearing?
- Safely swerve the car slightly left and right within your lane.
- If the noise changes pitch (gets louder/quieter): It’s likely a Wheel Bearing (loading and unloading the weight).
- If the noise stays the same: It’s likely just noisy Tires.
Step 3: The Transmission “Shudder” Check
Transmission issues are the most expensive repairs. Test it two ways:
- Hard Acceleration: Push the car to highway speeds. It should shift crisp and fast.
- The “Soft Coast”: Drive gently around 40 MPH. If you feel the car “shudder” or shake like it’s driving over a rumble strip, that is often a Torque Converter Shudder. Walk away.
Step 4: The “Stress Test” for Electronics
Don’t just click the buttons once.
- Windows & Locks: Roll every window down and up 2-3 times. Weak motors often fail on the second or third try.
- Sunroofs: Open it and close it. Listen for wind noise when it’s closed—a bad seal sounds like a window is cracked open.
Step 5: The Final Verification
Just like we look at the “Seller’s Disclosure” in real estate, look at the car’s history.
- Service Records: Has the transmission fluid ever been changed? If the car has 100,000 miles and the transmission fluid is original, be very cautious.
- The Golden Rule: If the car passes your test, take it to a mechanic for a lift inspection. As The Car Care Nut says, “It is better to be a nuisance customer who checks everything than to be stuck with a bad car forever.”
Planning to buy or sell a home in 2026? If you are looking for a St. Louis real estate agent who believes in data, due diligence, and protecting your investment, let’s connect.
